Van's Cafe, Brainerd, Minnesota

(= = = = = Under Construction = = = = =)

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Van's Cafe Postcard (ca. 1938) Van's Cafe Postcard (ca. 1940) Van's Cafe Postcard (ca. 1960) Sawmill Inn (2007)

Welcome to the "Historic" Van's Cafe web site. In these pages you will find the history of the restaurant and of the families that ran it. Postcards has the various historic postcards for the Cafe. Memorabilia shows the various "Van's Cafe Branded" items. Photos has pictures of special events held inside the Cafe. Enjoy!


Early History of 6th and Main/Washington

In 1885, Charles F. Kindred, a mover and shaker in early Brainerd, built the Villard Hotel on the northwest corner of 6th and Main. It burned down in 1887, and, impatient with the cleanup of the current site, he excavated the northeast corner (Van's Cafe corner) to build the foundation for a new hotel. But before construction of the hotel started, he went bankrupt and left the area.

  
N. P. Lunch Counter ca. 1907
N. P. Lunch Counter ca. 1907
Click image to enlarge (4 MB)
(Photo courtesy of Nancy Silvernail)

In 1904, on New Years Day, the Arlington Hotel, on the southwest corner of 6th and Main, burned down. The restaurant in that hotel was probably where railroad passengers would grab a bite to eat (the Depot was on the southest corner of 6th and Main). The Northern Pacific Railroad Company was eager to get another restaurant up and running soon and wanted the manager of the Arlington to operate a Lunch Counter of some kind. The cost of the building was an initial sticking point.

By 1907, and possibly earlier, the "N. P. Lunch Room" was in business "west of the Depot" (which was where the Arlington Hotel was on the west side of Sixth) and was being run by Clayton D. Herbert (behind the counter in the photo to the right).

In 1906, the Brainerd Lumber Company sawmill in east Brainerd closed. The machinery, originally from a sawmill at Gull River, west of Baxter, was moved to places farther north. A May 24, 1895 article in the Brainerd Dispatch about the sawmill beginning its milling operations said that a new office building (see photo, below right) was then under construction. Turn of the century maps show that it was on the NE corner of Mill Avenue and Water (now "Q") Street, where the ball field parking lot is today. This building was sold in 1908 to C. D. "Dick" Herbert.

  
Brainerd Lumber Company Office ca. 1900
Brainerd Lumber Company Office ca. 1900
Click image to enlarge (840 KB)
(Photo from Carl Zapffe Collection at the Historical Society)
August 28, 1908, Brainerd Dispatch, article on page 2:   
Big Mill Company Office to be Moved
Down to City and Made Into a Restaurant


    C. D. Herbert has purchased the office building formerly occupied by the Brainerd Lumber Company, in East Brainerd and will move it down town and onto the lots at the corner of Main and Sixth streets recently leased by him from Mrs. Mary Howe and will fit it up into a first class restaurant on the first floor and will have his residence up stairs. A. Everett will move the building. This will be a large undertaking and amount to more than the purchase price of the building which was at a decided bargain.

Sep 18, 1908, Brainerd Dispatch p. 2
    C. D. Herbert is utilizing a new train call to his restaurant. The express company brought to him yesterday a real Chinese gong. His son, F. C. Herbert of the U. S. N. sent it to him from Canton, China.
  

He moved it to a newly-completed foundation on the northeast corner of 6th and Main and opened the "Depot Lunch Room", so named because the original Northern Pacific Railroad Depot was across the street on the southeast corner and he operated a lunch room west of the Depot. (That original Depot burned in 1917.)

  
East Brainerd Wagon Bridge ca. 1900
East Brainerd Wagon Bridge ca. 1900
Click image to enlarge (136 KB)
(Photo from Crow Wing County Museum)

Noted area historian Carl Zapffe wrote in his Brainerd, Minnesota, 1871-1946 : 75th Anniversary book: “The vacant office stood on the NE site for awhile, until a Brainerd chef purchased it in 1908 and moved it to its present site. He moved it intact (emphasis mine) ...”

But how to get it over the ravine between east and central Brainerd? The fill that Washington street passes over was not completed until 1914, and only a wooden wagon bridge existed (see photo to the right) that clearly could not support the weight of an intact building. The other option is to haul it by rail from the sawmill yard to Sixth street which is quite an endeavor in itself.

But ol' Carl was wrong! See the November 6, 1908, article from the Brainerd Arena, below, which says they had to "take this building down":

Nov 6, 1908, Brainerd Dispatch p. 2
    The work of erecting, or rather re-erecting the building purchased by C. D. Herbert for a restaurant, commenced yesterday. Francis Britton has the contract and expects to have the building ready for occupancy in about two weeks. The Slipp-Gruenhagen Co. also has a crew of men at work connecting the building with the Sixth street sewer.
 
Nov 6, 1908, Brainerd Arena p. 5
    C. D. Herbert has a crew of men working on the re-erection of the building he purchased from Mrs. Francis Britton. It required considerable work to take this building down and move it from North Mill street to the corner of Sixth and Main streets, but "Dick" will have a fine restaurant when it is finished and will no doubt do a good business. He contemplates fiting[sic] the second story into modern rooms, with bath[sic] hot and cold water, to accomodate trancient[sic] trade.
 
Feb 5, 1909, Brainerd Dispatch p. 2
    C. D. Herbert has moved his lunch counter in to his new quarters in the fine building he purchased and moved down from the old Brainerd Mill Company site. He will remove the small building heretofore used as a lunch room to the north and use it for a kitchen. When that is done, he will have a fine dining room in addition to the main lunch room. For the present, however, he is compelled to use the dining room as a kitchen.

The February 5, 1909 article solves a mystery. The present-day kitchen was, indeed, added to the back of the building. The interior pictures from the 1920's and 1930's show a divider wall behind the counter, and it's now clear that the area behind that wall was a "dining room" that was separate from the "main lunch room".


  
Interior of N.P. Lunch Room ca. 1910s
Click image to enlarge (880 KB)
(Photo courtesy of Nancy Silvernail)

N. P. Lunch Room Opens For Business in 1909

Although the building was moved/re-erected in 1908, the business was not operational until C.D. Herbert moved his lunch counter over in February of 1909.

The faded photo to the right shows the interior of the newly operational "N.P. Lunch Room" sometime in the 1910s. The view is to the south, so the counter is along the west side of the room and in the background you can see the stairway starting up along the south wall and then turning at a landing and heading north into the upstairs hallway.

Note that the dark colored counter and the metallic barstools are the same ones that were in the N.P. Lunch Counter picture, above, and in the 1925 Van's Lunch picture, below. The identities of the men in the picture are unknown.


  
Exterior of N.P. Lunch Room ca. 1913
Exterior of N.P. Lunch Room ca. 1913
Click image to see full view (1 MB)
(Photo courtesy of Beverly J. Hall)

Photo showing Office Building and Lunch Counter Combo

In 2018 a photo showing the restaurant building around 1913 was shared to the Share History and Stories of Brainerd Lakes Area Faceboook Group. The full photo (the original is only about 3 inches square) shows a young Dolores Hall standing on a dirt 5th Street next to Main Street at the site of her grandparents' former home which was torn down in 1892. The photographer was facing east and in the background is Brainerd's first N.P. Depot, which burned in 1917, and the "new" N.P. Lunch Room restraurant!

This is such a great photo! It clearly shows that the main part of the building is the reconstructed squarish Brainerd Lumber Company office building with the row of four second-story windows and the little fenced in area up on top. Attached at the back is the narrow N.P. Lunch Counter owned by C. D. Herbert from kitty corner across the street which now serves as the kitchen with its own side door entry. So at this point Herbert has been in business at that location for about 4 years.


History of Cafe Property-related Transactions

These recorded property-related transactions show the trail of ownership of lots 15-18 in the southwest corner of block 44, where the cafe is (Note C.D. Herbert dies on Nov 6, 1919 following surgery):

Nov 7, 1888 –  Jeremiah J. Howe buys lots 15-18 from Charles F. Kindred
Nov 15, 1893 –  Widow Mary Howe takes ownership of lots 15-18
Aug 1, 1908 –  Mary M. Howe leases to C.D. Herbert south 50 ft. of lots 15-18 for 5 years at $100/year
Jan 4, 1912 –  C.D. Herbert buys lots 15-18 from Mary Howe
Jul 19, 1919 –  William Graham buys lots 15-18 from C.D. Herbert
Mar 25, 1922 –  Peter A. Erickson buys lots 15-18 from William Graham
May 2, 1929 –  Peter A. Erickson leases to C.C. Van Essen lots 17-18 for 5 years at $75/year
Dec 30, 1932 –  Clarence C. Van Essen receives warranty deed from Peter A. Erickson, widower, by exercising an option dated May 28, 1931, for the purchase of lots 15-18 for $12,000. Recorded in Book "S" of Miscellaneous Records, p. 476

So - note that although the Van Essen family owned the business from 1925 on, they did not own the land until 1933. Once that ownership was secured, they set about improving the building by adding on the private dining room and bathrooms and expanding the upstairs living quarters.


Lunch Room and Cafe In Brainerd City Directories

The Brainerd City Directories provide more details on the ownership of the restaurant. Some directories covered two years and were probably published late in the first year. Information is listed in three sections - by last name (which includes occupation or business and spouse if any), by street, and by business.

1905
Herbert, Clayton D   rms rear 213 S 5th st
1907
Herbert, Clayton D   lunch room w of N P Depot, rms 417 Front st
[Note: that lunch room must be what was moved in back of the new building per Feb 5 article]
1908-1909
RESTAURANTS - Depot Lunch Room, C D Herbert propr, 601 Main st
Herbert, Clayton D   propr Depot Lunch Room, 601 Main st (Bertha)
1916-1917
Herbert, Clayton D   lunch room 601 Main st, res same (Bertha)
F.W. Woolworth 618 Front St. C.C. Van Essen, mgr
1918-1919
MAIN ST - 601 Depot Lunch Room
RESTAURANTS - Trautmann, John   601 Main st
RESTAURANTS - Herbert, C D   607 Laurel st   [Note: he died in 1919]
RESTAURANTS - Dairy Lunch and Restaurant   221 S 6th st
Herbert, Clayton D   lunch room 607 Laurel st, rms 601 main st (Bertha)
TRAUTMANN, JOHN   Propr The Dairy Lunch and Restaurant 221 S 6th St, res same (Betsy)
1920-1921
MAIN ST - 601 W A Vogt
RESTAURANTS - Vogt, Mrs Isabel   601 Main st
RESTAURANTS - Hewitt, E S   607 Laurel st
RESTAURANTS - New Elite Cafe   221 S 6th st
Vogt, Wm A   emp N P Shops, res 601 Main st (Isabel)
Vogt, Mrs Isabel   restaurant 601 Main st
1922-1923
MAIN ST - 601 N P Lunch Room
RESTAURANTS - N P Lunch Room   601 Main st
RESTAURANTS - Herbert's Coffee House   607 Laurel st   [note: E S Hewitt is owner]
DE ROCHER BROS (Moses and Thos C)   proprs N P Lunch Room 601 Main st
De Rocher, Miss Edith   student, bds 601 Main st
DE ROCHER, MOSES (De Rocher Bros)   res 601 Main st (Florence)
DE ROCHER, THOS C (De Rocher Bros)   bds 601 Main st
Van Essen, Clarence C   restaurant 601 Main st
Vogt, Wm A   emp N P Shops, res 1223 E Pine st (Isabel)
1924-1925
(Basically unchanged from 1922-1923)
1927-1928 (partial)
RESTAURANTS - Van's Cafe   601 Main st
Van Essen, Clarence C   propr Van's Cafe 601 Main st (Clara)
De Rocher, Moses   608 S 5th st (Florence)

The 1910 census shows Clayton D. Herbert and family at 224 Sixth Street, which would be the southeast corner of 6th and Kingwood (now the parking lot north of the Cafe) where Charles Kindred's house was.

The 1920 census shows Will Vogt and family at 601 Main.

The 1930 census shows Clarence Van Essen and family at 601 Main. Some of the info is wrong...


  
N. P. Lunch Becomes Van's Lunch in 1925
(Brainerd Daily Dispatch Jan 27 1925)

The Van Essen Family Gets Involved

Around 1922, Clarence and Clare Van Essen moved back to Brainerd from Kenosha, Wisconsin, where Clarence had been managing the local F. W. Woolworth store.

The January 27, 1925, Brainerd Daily Dispatch, on page two (see article at right), says that Mr. and Mrs. C. C. Van Essen, connected with the N. P. Lunch Room for the past three years, will continue to operate it after acquiring it from the DeRocher brothers. (The DeRocher brothers were Tom and Moses. Moses was Clare's step-father. The New Brainerd Cafe was located at 519 Laurel in the New Brainerd Hotel which was part of the Iron Exchange building, built in 1909 on the N.W. corner of 6th and Laurel.)

By 1927, "Van's Lunch Room" had become "Van's Cafe". The Friday April 22, 1927, weekly Brainerd Dispatch had this "Local News Note" for Monday on page two:

The addition of a new lunch counter and back bar, together with several minor improvements
has added greatly to the appearance of Van's Cafe at Sixth and Main streets.


  
Fire hose being tested near Van's Lunch ca. 1927
Click to enlarge (180 KB)
(Photo from Historical Society)

“Known For Good Food”
Opposite Water Tower

Brainerd's famous landmark all-concrete water tower, one of the first of its kind, was built from 1919-1920 (See the Water Tower Construction Photo Gallery at crowwinghistory.org). Brainerd also upgraded its water mains and fire department equipment.

The photo to the right shows the new equipment being tested once the bowl was filled to normal operating capacity. It was taken around 1927, around the time that Van's Lunch Room became Van's Cafe, although the corner sign stayed up a few more years before being replaced with a Van's Cafe sign (see 1934 photo below).

(Original photo located in Box B7 in the Crow Wing County Historical Society Research Library.)


  
View of Van's Cafe from Water Tower ca 1928
Click image to enlarge (360 KB)
(Photo from Van Essen family archives)

Originally A Sawmill Office Building

As noted above, the building was moved from northeast Brainerd in 1908. The existing wagon bridge across the ravine at the time could not have supported the entire structure, so it was disassembled and moved in pieces to its destination and then re-erected over the newly-completed foundation.

The photo to the right, taken from the water tower, is the only known photo that shows the full original exterior and shape of that office building. It also shows the Standard Oil filling station at the north end of the block (the Charles F. Kindred homestead, later occupied by the Herbert family before the Lunch Room upstairs became living quarters).


  
Van's Lunch Interior ca 1925
Click image to really enlarge (960 KB)
(Photo from Van Essen family archives)

Inside Van's Lunch circa 1925

How fortunate we are that Clarence and Clare had photos taken of their restaurant over the years. The photo to the right was taken in the 1920s before the moderate remodeling when Van's Lunch became Van's Cafe.

The door in the back goes into the kitchen. The window to the left is just for show - there is no outside view there.

Clare and her mother Florence (wife of Mose DeRocher) are behind the counter. Above Clare you can see a transom for a door that goes into an adjacent room. Behind the counter is an open area high on the wall (with a few signs stuck into it) that shows part of a room on the other side. One of the signs advertises a Sunday Special - Chicken Dinner 65¢

The dark counter and the metallic barstools are the same ones that were in the original N.P. Lunch Counter, which were moved to the newly-re-erected building in 1909.


  
Van's Cafe Interior ca 1930
Click image to really enlarge (840 KB)
(Photo from Van Essen family archives)

Inside Van's Cafe circa 1930

The photo to the right was taken about 1930 after the remodeling when Van's Lunch became Van's Cafe.

The "for show" window to the left of the kitchen door is now gone and the walls have been redecorated with scenic murals near the ceiling. The counter is now smaller, making room for another row of tables along the opposite wall. The chairs have coverings on the backs.

Clarence and Clare are behind the counter to the right. Their daughter Gloria is on the lap of a woman in the center of the room. Signs above the counter advertise Salads and Dinners and Cantaloupe. Note the new cigar humidor with the very large selection.


Buying the Real Estate

Up until now, the Van Essens owned the buildings but were leasing the land. This discouraged them from making any significant improvements. The January 10, 1933 Brainerd Daily Dispatch had this to report:

VAN ESSEN BUYS QUARTER OF BLOCK MAIN AND SIXTH

     Consummation of a deal whereby C. C. Van Essen acquires the property in which his cafe is located, together with adjoining property, from P. A. Erickson, was announced today.
     The sale involved $12,000 it was said.
     Real estate involved includes the two-story building housing Van's cafe, and two smaller buildings facing on Washington street.
     Remodeling of the two-story structure is planned by Van Essen to begin the latter part of February. He plans to enlarge the private dining room so as to accommodate larger private parties, install booths and a large glass front together with other improvements.
     These plans are tentative, Van Essen said.
     Located as the property is at the convergence of four major highways, which will bring trade together with the business he now enjoys. Van Essen believes that the improved property will not only encourage new business, but will enhance the architectural lines of the city.

By the end of August, extensive remodeling had been completed. See the 1933 Remodel page.


  
Exterior of Van's Cafe Showing Corner Sign ca 1934 Exterior of Van's Cafe Showing Front Sign ca 1934
(Photos from Van Essen family archives)

Exterior and Sign circa 1933

The two photos to the right show the first Van's Cafe corner sign with VAN'S / CAFE / TASTY FOOD.

1st photo: Clare Van Essen and her daughter Marcie.
2nd photo: teenager and young girl are Marcie and her sister Gloria; the dark-haired woman is Clare's sister, Edie DeRocher; the other woman and young boy are unrelated.


  
Van's Cafe Interior ca 1942
Click image to enlarge (200 KB)
(Photo from Van Essen family archives)

Inside Van's Cafe circa 1942

The photo to the right was taken in the early 1940's after the major "art deco" remodeling as described in this 1941 "Van's Cafe Modernized By $10,000 Project" article. Bill Van Essen, pictured, the son of Clare and Clarence, was a Navy Pilot in WW II home on leave.

The counter was moved from the middle to the west wall, new booths were put in, and the interior décor was completely redone. The ceiling had recessed fluorescent lighting that illuminated a sky-blue arched dome.

New neon signs in the front windows displayed "CHOW MEIN", "FRIED CHICKEN", "SIZZLING STEAKS", and "BAR B Q RIBS".


To Do

The kitchen was added on right at the beginning, but the very back room of the kitchen, next to the infamous delivery chute, was added later. When was that?

The east wall of the original lunch room was where the booths now end. The little alcove room in front was added during the 1941 remodeling (we have family color film of the area to the east of the building from 1940 that shows the alcove is not yet there). But the restrooms and what used to be the private dining room that extended to the back door was added by 1934 as my aunt remembers the upstairs expanding at that time to include a large living room and mini-bar-and-kitchen (where many fond family memories were formed). When exactly was that?

The banquet room and space occupied by Gorham Realty was added in 1958. Need details.

The Midway Grocery was torn down in early 1965. That was probably when the office building was built next to the banquet room.

A loon mounted by Jack Echternacht, DDS, was put on display at the Cafe around 1970. The DNR said "No Dice!" since it was a protected bird. After a public outcry, the resolution was that the DNR took possession of it but it is on permanent loan to the restaurant. Need details...

Include pix of Ford Times magazine 1957 article on Van's and of the original painting that we still have.


Comments/feedback to John Van Essen or Mark Van Essen